Should Curtains Go to Ceiling or Window? The Simple Rule That Changes Everything

Most people hang curtains just above the window frame. It’s easy. It’s what everyone does. But if you’ve ever walked into a room and thought, something feels off-even though everything else looks good-that’s probably because your curtains are too short.

Hanging curtains from the ceiling instead of right above the window isn’t just a design trend. It’s a proven trick that makes rooms look taller, windows bigger, and spaces feel more expensive-all without spending a dime on new furniture. And the best part? It’s simple to do.

Why Ceiling-Mounted Curtains Work Better

Think about how your eyes move around a room. They follow lines-horizontal and vertical. When curtains start at the window frame, they create a visual cutoff. The eye stops at the top of the window and sees a gap between the curtain and the ceiling. That gap makes the ceiling feel lower and the window smaller.

Mount curtains from the ceiling, and you create a continuous vertical line from floor to ceiling. Your eyes follow that line upward, making the room feel taller. In a 2023 study by the Canadian Interior Design Institute, rooms with ceiling-mounted curtains were rated as 22% more spacious by participants, even when the actual square footage didn’t change.

It’s not magic. It’s physics. Light and shadow behave differently when curtains extend to the ceiling. Natural light flows more evenly, and shadows don’t pool awkwardly at the top of the window. That’s why even small apartments in downtown Toronto look bigger with ceiling-hung curtains.

The Right Way to Hang Curtains from the Ceiling

You don’t need special tools or a contractor. Here’s how to do it right:

1. Measure from the ceiling down to where you want the curtain to end-usually 1/2 inch above the floor for a clean, tailored look.
2. Install a curtain rod or track directly on the ceiling, centered above the window. Use a level. Even a 1/4-inch tilt will look off.
3. Use brackets that can support the weight of your fabric. Heavy linen or blackout curtains need sturdy hardware. Don’t just use drywall anchors-go for ceiling joists if you can.
4. Choose curtains that are at least 2.5 times the width of the window. This ensures fullness when drawn. Too narrow, and they’ll look cheap, even if they’re expensive fabric.
5. Let the curtains pool slightly on the floor if you like a luxe feel. Otherwise, end them just above the floor to avoid dragging.

Pro tip: If your ceiling is uneven or has crown molding, install the rod flush with the ceiling, not the molding. The molding is decorative-it’s not structural. Letting the curtain cover it creates a seamless flow.

When Not to Go to the Ceiling

There are exceptions. Ceiling-mounted curtains don’t work well in every room.

• Low ceilings under 8 feet: If your ceiling is under 8 feet, hanging curtains too high can make the room feel cramped. Stick to mounting the rod 4-6 inches above the window frame and choose lightweight, sheer fabrics to avoid visual weight.
• Windows with deep sills or radiators: If your window has a wide sill or a radiator underneath, hanging curtains from the ceiling might block heat or make it hard to open the window. In these cases, mount the rod just above the window, but still extend the curtains to the floor.
• Small, cluttered spaces: If the room is already packed with furniture or busy patterns, ceiling-to-floor curtains can overwhelm the space. Use simpler fabrics and avoid heavy drapes.

Also, avoid hanging curtains from the ceiling if the window is part of a sliding glass door. In that case, mount the rod to the ceiling but extend it beyond the door frame on both sides. This makes the opening feel wider and more inviting.

What About Window-Height Curtains?

Hanging curtains just above the window frame used to be standard. It’s what you saw in 1980s homes, in old TV shows, and in budget furniture stores. But here’s the truth: it makes windows look smaller and rooms feel shorter.

Imagine a window that’s 5 feet tall. If you hang curtains 6 inches above it, you’re adding a 6-inch gap. That gap draws attention to the window’s actual size. It says, “This is all you’ve got.”

Now imagine those same curtains starting at the ceiling-10 feet above the floor. Suddenly, that 5-foot window looks like it stretches nearly to the top of the room. The window becomes a focal point, not a limitation.

And don’t fall for the myth that ceiling-mounted curtains are only for formal living rooms. In a Toronto condo with 9-foot ceilings, I’ve seen ceiling-to-floor curtains in kitchens, bathrooms (with moisture-resistant fabric), and even home offices. They make small spaces feel open. They make high ceilings feel intentional.

Fabric Matters More Than You Think

It’s not just about height. The fabric you choose changes how the curtain performs visually.

• Lightweight fabrics (linen, cotton, voile): Best for airy, casual rooms. They soften light and don’t overwhelm. Great for bedrooms and sunrooms.
• Heavy fabrics (velvet, blackout, wool blends): Add warmth and sound absorption. Perfect for living rooms or media rooms. But they need stronger rods and ceiling anchors.
• Patterned curtains: Avoid large, busy prints if you’re hanging from the ceiling. The vertical line should feel clean. Small, subtle patterns work fine.
• Color: Match your curtains to your wall color for a seamless look. Or go one shade darker for contrast. Never go lighter than your walls-it creates a visual break.

One mistake I see all the time: people buy curtains that are too short. They think, “I’ll just hem them.” But hemming adds bulk at the bottom, and it’s rarely done evenly. Buy curtains in the right length from the start. If you need 96 inches, get 96-inch panels. Don’t settle for 84-inch and hope it works.

Real-World Results

I worked with a client in Scarborough who had a 10x12-foot bedroom with 8-foot ceilings. The windows were standard 60-inch width. She had cheap, knee-length curtains that ended right above the dresser. The room felt cramped and dated.

We moved the rod to the ceiling, installed 96-inch blackout panels in a soft charcoal, and widened the rod to extend 12 inches beyond each side of the window. The result? The room looked 20% larger. The window looked like a floor-to-ceiling glass wall. She said, “I didn’t realize how much I hated the old curtains until they were gone.”

That’s the power of this small change. No new paint. No new furniture. Just better curtain placement.

Common Myths Debunked

Let’s clear up the confusion:

• Myth: Ceiling-mounted curtains are expensive. Truth: The rod might cost $30 more, but you’re not paying for new windows or renovations.
• Myth: It’s too hard to install. Truth: A drill, a level, and 30 minutes are all you need. Most hardware stores sell ceiling-mount kits.
• Myth: Only luxury homes do this. Truth: It’s used in apartments, rentals, and even Airbnb listings because it makes spaces feel more upscale.
• Myth: Curtains should never touch the floor. Truth: A slight pool (1-2 inches) adds elegance. Barely touching the floor looks intentional. Floating curtains look unfinished.

Final Rule: Always Go Ceiling to Floor

If you remember one thing from this, let it be this: curtains should go from ceiling to floor. Always. Unless your ceiling is too low, your window is blocked by a radiator, or you’re in a space where function overrides form.

It’s the single easiest, cheapest, and most effective upgrade you can make to any room. It doesn’t require a designer. You don’t need to buy new furniture. Just move the rod up, buy longer curtains, and watch how the whole room changes.

It’s not about following trends. It’s about understanding how space works. Your eyes are tricked by lines. Give them a clean, continuous one-and they’ll see a bigger, brighter, more beautiful room.